Two projects last weekend – replaced the control module for the Nova Kool refrigerator, and replaceed the table post with a collapsible gas-strut style.
After contacting Nova Kool with our model and serial number information, they quickly and nicely shipped us a new module. We are well out of WGO warranty, and hate to mess with RV repair places anyway, so this was a DIY project. They have some good videos on their website about the module itself, but obviously not much about how to remove it from a Paseo.
And you do need to remove it – the module is in the back, and covered by a corrugated more-than-just-cardboard cover that has a ton of screws.
One interesting thing – there is a small fan that blows air across the compressor and the coils in the back. Ours was not connected. I decided that improving efficiency was more important that a little bit of fan noise and connected the fan when I replaced the module. You can hear it run, but it’s not objectionable in my opinion.
I’d like to know why it wasn’t connected. Lower the noise? A little les power draw? A mistake by WGO? The fan will draw some current, I didn’t look at the model and determine how much. Should be under 500ma. I’m hoping that since the fan should improve efficiency that the shorter run times of the compressor will “pay” for the fan current, but that’s just a gut feeling, I have no data to back that up.
One other point I should make – I don’t know that ours had actually failed, although there was at least one incident where fridge temps went higher than they should have. We decided to replace it since it was in the batch that is known to have potential issues.
A quick how-to:
- Disconnect the power cable – there is a 2-conductor connector located under the driver’s side bench right next to the fridge.
- While you are there, use a socket wrench (or socket on a cordless drill/driver) to remove the safety cable. This is a steel cable running out from the back of the fridge and bolted to a Transit structural member in that same area under the bench.
- Remove the (6?) screws from the front face of the fridge. These are behind cosmetic plastic covering plugs which are a huge pain to remove. Mine got so chewed up in the removal process that I didn’t bother putting them back on, would probably look worse than the uncovered holes!
- Slide the fridge out of the enclosure. On mine the opening was so tight it was a challenge working the corrugated cover through the opening, but it was possible. We placed a stack of levelers topped by our sand mat right in front to allow resting the fridge on them when we had it out. It’s heavy, but nothing an average male and a reasonable strong female can’t handle. (as in, Linda and I did it ourselves)
- To access the back you need a bit more room, so we moved it up on to the area between the benches. Did not rotate it, there was enough room to work on it sideways. We did remove the table for this project.
- Remove roughly 800 screws from the corrugated cover (another job for a cordless screwdriver). Now you can access the module.
- Watch the videos from the NovaKool support pages for actual module replacement.
- Put everything back pretty much in reverse order of removal. Be sure to get the power cable and the safety cable fed through properly as you slide the fridge back in. And don’t forget to re-attach the safety cable!
After plenty of wrestling with the table and the support post as we converted from table to bed to table to bed… well, you know how it goes, we decided to replace it with a air-strut collapsible pedestal.
This is a Springfield Air-Powered 3-Stage Pedestal. I believe the part number is 1660230. We paid about $350 for ours. You can find them on Amazon and most boating supply places. the key here is 13″ at lowest point, and 28″ at highest. That matches the original heights.
Installation was pretty simple.
Removed the old post hardware from the table and the floor. Attached the new pedestal to the floor using the same screws. I re-used the hole closest to the hatch, and drilled pilot holes for the other ones – the new base is much bigger that the old one.
To attach the top plate to the table, I used the following technique.
- Screwed the base down using only two screws, and not super tight yet.
- With the pedestal fully collapsed, place the tabletop in the normal “bed” position. Be sure it is not so far back that the rear door screen can hit it!
- Laying under the table, use something like a marker to trace an outline of the front and part of the sides of the upper plate.
- Now you can do the rest without needing to be upside down. Remove the tabletop and unscrew the pedestal from the floor.
- Turn the tabletop over, and place it on the rails.
- Turn the pedestal over and place it on the underside of the tabletop (show in a photo below).
- Line it up with the outline you drew.
- Drill pilot holes and screw the top plate to the underside of the tabletop.
- Turn the whole assembly over (the hardest part of this method) and screw the bottom plate to the floor.
Yeah, you could do it all from underneath I guess, but this method worked well for me. Whatever method you use, the key to positioning the table is to make sure:
- The rear screen is not interfered with.
- The table fits between the bed rails.
- The bed base extension piece still fits.